In case you missed it, this is Part I of the series:
Part 2 - Letter from Linda to Janice Anne - Iâve crossed a line in my sailing adventure
Dear J - Thanks so much for your reply to my letter. I so enjoyed reading more about how you got into this crazy life of sailing and rebuilding a classic yacht. The fact that we have so many things in common really astonishes me. You said how honored you were to participate in our exchange - know that I am also honored to create this series with you.
I laughed at your comment about diving in, fully clothed, after whatever it is that youâve dropped - and how that is an appropriate metaphor for your life. Me too. You say you are ânot a sailorâ but I must disagree. You must have a sailor gene in your DNA to be doing what you are now, and you and your Sailor have done a wonderful job on your refit. We both know that the job will never âendâ but now you are reaping the benefits of being back in the water and sailing again. I canât wait to hear how you enjoyed your first sail since 2024!
This past couple of weeks have been action packed for the Captain and I. Weâve left Vanuatu and started our passage through the Solomon Islands, and have officially crossed a line in our ocean exploration. Things here in this place on the planet that few people ever visit are real and raw, and likely not to everyoneâs taste. You may have seen my essay this weekend about the midnight intrusion on Duende, and that was a whole other side of Paradise. Iâd love to talk about security and risk with you in another letter.
What people take for granted in the âreal worldâ are in a different dimension here in the remote islands. Shopping for food is one example that I think will help put this in perspective for you. I know youâve had some experience in other countries where the markets can be a bit edgy and where you get what you can, when you can. We have a rule, âif you see it, buy itâ - because chances are if you donât, and you go back to get it later, it will be gone.
Our last experience in anything resembling a store was in Port Orly on Espiritu Santo in Vanuatu. Weâd heard that there was a place to get meat, and thought it was worth a try to top up the freezer. There is a thriving beef industry in Vanuatu, and we had great success with the meat we got in Port Vila. But the butcher shop in Orly was a mind-blower. It was a cinderblock building down a dirt path off the main road of the village. The front room of the building was a simple âstoaâ, with a few shelves of canned goods behind a counter. We asked about fresh meat, and Matthew, the shop keeper, led us behind the counter and into the back room. Laid out on the floor inside the entrance were two hides from freshly butchered cows, still covered in blood and streaked with fat and sinew.
There were a couple of chest freezers against the wall, full of freshly butchered beef - not yet frozen. Whether tenderloin or chuck roast, it was all priced the same - $600 Vatu ($5.26 USD) per kilo. Naturally, I chose tenderloin. Matthew opened up the freezer and pulled out a chunk and slapped it on the tiled counter. He cut off a piece and weighed it on the scale - one kilo exactly.
Beef doesnât get any fresher than that. The place wasnât exactly up to first world sanitation standards, but there were no flies, and at that price I felt we had little to lose. All in all, it was an unforgettable experience, but again, one that many people would run from. That night I cooked a couple of nice filets. Since they were not aged, they were a bit tough, but super tasty. I put the rest of the kilo in the fridge to age for a few days, and then froze it. Our second meal from it a few nights ago was much improved - more tender and still tasty.
Since we left the more populated islands in Vanuatu there havenât been any stores to speak of, and we donât have any Solomon dollars to spend if there were. We are now bartering for vegetables and fruit from people who come out to our boat in dugout canoes. Who needs stores when you can trade a bag of rice for eggplant and bok choy from Junior, a kid of about 10 who wore giant pink Crocs and paddled his dugout with a chunk of wood, not a paddle. Or a section of rope, a pair of sunglasses, and a few fish hooks and lures to Fred, who took us on a guided walk of his village and made numerous visits to the boat with green peppers, plantains, and tomatoes. Not to mention the papaya and bananas I got from Lisha and Aisha, the granddaughters of the village chief in Uki Ni Massi, who were thrilled with beads, colorful hair ties, and nail polish.
People have so little, and I wish everyday that Iâd thought to bring more things that would be useful such as reading glasses, sunglasses, and a lot more school and art supplies. When we reprovision next Iâll load up on food items like small bags of rice and sugar and noodle soups. And of course lollies, always lollies for the kids of all ages. Food staples are always welcome, and we have many more remote islands in our path.
Many of the people here never leave their islands, and weâve met kids who have never seen a white person, ridden in a car, touched a piece of ice, or even seen a sail boat. In the place we anchored a couple of nights ago, a guy named Presley came out in his dugout canoe to chat with us, and told us that they hadnât seen another visiting yacht since September 2025. His village had no roads, and no vehicles. They farm copra and cacao, and a small boat comes every month or so with supplies. Their lives are so different than ours, and I am learning so much about a part of the planet that I knew little about before we came here.
We have since left Guadalcanal, an island that shows no outward signs of the atrocities that occurred here in WW2, but harbors the ghosts. Iâve been thinking a lot about the events that took place here and how they affected the people. My next essay is shaping up around this topic. Itâs both fascinating and repelling - so much tragedy in this beautiful place.
At this moment we are sailing along with full yankee and a reefed main, making our way up to the island of New Georgia - another new landfall. And here I am, sitting in the pilothouse, writing this letter to you on my laptop. The wonders of technology have really changed the experience of remote ocean adventure, in a way that is truly amazing.
Weâre planning our route for the next leg of this extreme passage through the rest of the Solomons to the outer islands of Papua New Guinea and on to Indonesia. Who knows what that is going to bring? While this life is not for everyone, itâs definitely for me. I am happy to be able to share some of it with you in this series, and look forward to hearing back from you soon.
And hereâs a full moon shot from the other night - itâs very cool that you are see the same one, on the opposite side of the planet, on a different day!
Sail on my friend!
LJ, SV Duende
Underway from Guadalcanal to New Georgia, Solomon Islands
Latitude: 009° 03.779ââ S
Longitude: 159° 33.829â E
Part 2: Letter from Janice Anne to Linda - Your stories make me glad to be back on the water!
Good Morning LJâ not morning for you, of courseâŚ!
I was so pleased to receive this todayâ opened it immediatelyâsounds like island hopping at its finest! Go you! And go me, for the first time since May 1, 2024 STEADFAST found herself under full sail last Thursday. What a feeling after all this time, and things went beautifully, felt like we belonged, and STEADFAST finally got to show off her stuff again.
I chuckled a bit at our ongoing âAm I a Sailor after only a few years?â dialogueâI think it might be fair to say yes, I know how to sail. The rest is pure determination and grit. THIS LIFE IS NOT FOR EVERYONEâŚ. ;)
Your current stop, Guadalcanal, certainly brings back memories of history class, however vague, WWII battles and the ugliness of war; so glad that has been left behind to a large extent, anyway. Cannot be forgotten, Iâm sure. That is an amazing photoâ what a stunning island! Wandering the Bahamas brings the now-controversial Christopher Columbus back to life; his first landfall was not in North America, as I feel like I was taught, but an outlier of the main Bahama chain. The reality would be that he pretty much missed the big olâ home continent of oursâŚ..and then âdiscoveredâ there were already complex cultures, of all things!
Anyway, on to your shopping trip to the Butcherâ vegans beware indeed. I, too, would have chosen the tenderloin, but might have purchased the entire thing instead of just a kilo! I imagine that they waste no part of the animal, and thatâs always so nice to seeâ we take our grocery stores for granted, donât we? I agree completely on the cleanliness and the lack of flies. Crucial. Certainly that was by far the freshest meat you have ever purchased. How did they package it? Did you have bags? Just curious. We fish behind the vessel constantly and also spear for lobster and smaller fish. Is this part of your provisioning/diet? Iâve met an amazing number of boaters who donât eat seafood, but Iâm a huge fan, as long as itâs properly prepared.
Iâve walked miles on rough roads now and then and echo your motto on grocery purchases. We, too, buy it when we see it, if weâre willing and able to carry it back to where we came ashore! I once paid $12USD for a pineapple as it was the only fresh fruit on an isolated island. (I bought some canned recently!) Values change, donât they? You know far better than I, after all these thousands of ocean miles under your keel. I know we eat a lot of old, tough carrots!
I love, respect and appreciate your advice on what to pack in order to trade and gift locals, especially the children. What incredible photographic captures of the twin girls and all the rest; they do seem so innocent, donât they? They are innocent, by any of our standards, I think. You are an ambassador, by choice, and Iâm sure youâre an excellent one! How delightful that they want to meet you. What an honor that they find you interesting, meet your eyes and smile instead of being the low-energy, callous, disinterested, phone-focused youngsters who can cross my path in this culture.
STEADFAST seems to encounter more adults in our travels than children. I once gave a dive mask to an elderly, lone Bahamian in a plastic kayak who was hunting spiny lobster with only his intellect and decades of experience, miles from home. Our first year we traded some tender tails from a commercial fishing boat for packets of hot chocolate and beer, an odd combination indeed!
In 2023 we were preparing for a five-year extended trip down the coast of South America and I thought long and hard about what we would NOT be able to purchase. I understand now how easy life on land or dock isâ whatever we need is generally accessible within a few miles. I tell my non-sailing friendsâ just think about the amount of groceries, toiletries, dry goods and beverages you buy each week. Each week! So now multiply that times months and provisioning is a tremendous undertaking, even knowing you will be able to find some things abroad. Think: years worth of your favorite toothpaste and razor blades, hot sauce and seasonings, right? The rest, no. If itâs not on your boat, you try completely new things or simply do without. Not a cultural norm, but one that is far healthier for the planet, IMHO.
Weâre taking a few days away from the real world and just wandering the (comparatively) small but mighty Chesapeake Bay, reuniting with our sailing life, rolling with it, so to speak. Like you, itâs most certainly the one I choose, and itâs definitely not for everyone!
Fair winds. Write soon! ~J
Latitude 38° 30.573 North
Longitude 76° 15.565 West
In case you missed it, this is my original âStack introductory piece, March of 2024; I think youâll love it!
BIG P.S.! I just read your post dated August 30th and I am so sorry and saddened about what happened to you and your Captain AND most importantly am glad you are safe. Weâve been lucky so far, but that is another example of YOUR self-sufficiency and the fact that THIS LIFE IS NOT FOR EVERYONEâŚ.take good care, my friend, and please stay joyous. ~J
About the Pen Pal Series
The Pen Pal Series features stories, questions, and unique experiences of other travelers â written from wherever we happen to be on the planet. Each open letter exchange pairs two different routes through life, shared in real time.
These pen pal letters are a throwback to the time before messaging and email, when letters sent by post were the only way to communicate 1:1. In those days, once letters left the writer, the words disappeared from the author and belonged to the recipient. In this electronic age, not only does the sender retain a copy, but it can be instantly shared with a host of others. Itâs a phenomenal connection.
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The logistics of each life.....everyone has them for certain. I had to teach myself to drink black coffee....but now there is shelf-stable dairy, thank goodness!
It has been my privilege to meet you in person and I love that we'll be following each other from here regardless of geography. Best of luck with the screenplays! J
With a kiddo currently adapting to life in Brazil, friends with family members moving into care facilities, and memories of my own transition aboard and back off again, I'm aware just how many major changes we make year over year. I'm not one to seek them out and am slow to adjust, but once I get my rhythms down, I'm good. Until the next upheaval. LOL!
Living aboard and in motion, no two days are quite alike. And yet, the patterns are there. I love how the two of you weave yourselves into them.